Troubleshooting a 2016 Chrysler 200 with OBD2 and No-Start Issues

Experiencing a no-start issue with your 2016 Chrysler 200 can be incredibly frustrating, especially when you’re relying on your vehicle daily. If you’re facing a situation where your Chrysler 200 won’t start and you suspect it might be related to an OBD2 system malfunction, you’re in the right place. While the OBD2 system is primarily for diagnostics, issues within this system, or related electrical problems, can sometimes contribute to a no-start condition. Let’s delve into troubleshooting steps that can help you diagnose and potentially resolve this problem.

Understanding the No-Start Condition in Your 2016 Chrysler 200

A no-start condition means that when you turn the key or press the start button, the engine fails to crank or turn over. This can be accompanied by various symptoms, such as:

No Cranking or Clicking: You turn the key, but nothing happens – no sound from the starter motor.
Slow Cranking: The engine turns over slowly and sluggishly, but doesn’t catch and start.
Clicking Sound: You might hear a rapid clicking sound, often indicating a weak battery or starter solenoid issue.
Engine Turns Over But Doesn’t Start: The engine cranks normally, but fails to ignite and run.

In the case we’re discussing, a car owner experienced an intermittent no-start issue with their daughter’s Chrysler 200. The problem was characterized by a “no crank, no start” situation that occurred sporadically, sometimes after the car had been sitting for a short period, especially in hot weather. Initial attempts to jump-start the vehicle were unsuccessful, and even a powerful jump pack only resulted in a brief, rough start before the engine died.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting Guide for a 2016 Chrysler 200 No-Start

Let’s follow a logical troubleshooting process, similar to what the car owner in the original scenario attempted, to pinpoint the cause of a no-start issue in a 2016 Chrysler 200. While the keyword focuses on OBD2, we will address this aspect alongside other potential culprits.

1. Battery Check: The First Suspect

The battery is the heart of your car’s electrical system, and a weak or dead battery is the most common reason for a no-start.

Voltage Test: Use a multimeter to check the battery voltage. A fully charged battery should read around 12.6 volts or higher at rest. If it’s significantly lower (e.g., below 12 volts), the battery may be discharged or failing. In the original case, the owner correctly checked the battery voltage and found a healthy 12.9 volts initially.
Load Test: A voltage test alone isn’t definitive. A load test checks the battery’s ability to deliver current under load. Many auto parts stores offer free battery load testing. The owner in the example had the battery load tested and it passed.
Terminal Inspection: Check the battery terminals for corrosion. Corrosion can impede current flow. The original poster discovered corrosion on a replacement battery terminal, which was causing a voltage drop at the jump start post. Cleaning and ensuring good terminal connections are crucial.

2. Starter System Inspection

If the battery is healthy, the next area to investigate is the starter system. The starter motor is responsible for cranking the engine.

Listen for Clicks: When you turn the key, listen for a clicking sound coming from the starter solenoid. A single click might indicate a failing solenoid or insufficient power reaching the starter. No click at all could point to a problem with the starter motor itself, the ignition switch, or related circuits. In the original case, there was “No Click from Starter Solenoid either.”
Starter Relay and Fuse: Consult your owner’s manual to locate the starter relay and fuse in the fuse box (often under the hood or in the cabin). Check these components. A faulty relay or blown fuse can prevent the starter from engaging. Swap the starter relay with an identical relay (if available) to test.
Direct Starter Test (Advanced): This test should be performed with caution and knowledge of automotive electrical systems. You can attempt to bypass the starter solenoid by carefully jumping the solenoid terminals with a screwdriver or jumper wire (following safe procedures and wiring diagrams for your vehicle). If the starter engages when jumped directly, it indicates a problem in the starting circuit before the starter, such as the ignition switch, starter relay, or wiring. This was considered in the original post by referencing a video about testing the starter circuit.

3. Alternator and Charging System

While the alternator primarily charges the battery while the engine is running, a failing alternator can sometimes contribute to battery drain and starting issues, especially in intermittent scenarios.

Alternator Output Test (Requires Engine Start): If you can get the car started, use a multimeter to check the alternator’s output voltage at the battery terminals while the engine is running. It should typically be in the range of 13.5 to 14.5 volts. A significantly lower or higher reading indicates a potential alternator problem. The tow truck driver in the original scenario suspected the alternator, but this could not be tested as the car wouldn’t stay running.
Belt Inspection: Check the serpentine belt that drives the alternator. A loose, worn, or broken belt will prevent the alternator from charging.

4. OBD2 System and Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)

This is where the “OBD2 not working” aspect comes into play. While a no-start issue isn’t directly caused by a faulty OBD2 system itself, problems within the car’s computer system (which the OBD2 port accesses) or related sensors can contribute to no-start conditions.

Attempt to Scan for Codes: Connect an OBD2 scanner to the port (usually located under the dashboard on the driver’s side). Even if the car won’t start, you may still be able to retrieve stored diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) if the car’s computer has power. However, if the OBD2 system is truly “not working” in the sense of no communication, the scanner won’t connect.
Check for Communication: If your OBD2 scanner fails to connect to the car’s computer, this could indicate a problem with the OBD2 port itself, the car’s computer (PCM/ECM), or the communication network (CAN bus). This is the core of the “OBD2 not working” keyword.
Relevant DTCs: If you can retrieve codes, pay attention to codes related to:
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM) / Engine Control Module (ECM): U-codes (network communication issues), P-codes related to engine management sensors or actuators.
- Body Control Module (BCM): U-codes, B-codes related to body electrical systems that might affect starting (though less directly).
- Immobilizer/Anti-theft System: B-codes or U-codes related to security system malfunctions, which can prevent starting.

Important Note on “OBD2 Not Working”: If your OBD2 scanner isn’t communicating, it’s crucial to diagnose why. Is it simply a blown fuse for the OBD2 port (check your owner’s manual for fuse locations), or is there a more serious issue with the car’s computer or wiring? A “non-communicating” OBD2 system can be a symptom of a larger electrical or computer problem that could be related to a no-start condition, especially if it affects critical engine management systems.

5. Potential Electrical Issues and the TIPM

Modern vehicles like the 2016 Chrysler 200 rely heavily on complex electrical systems. Beyond the battery and starter, consider these:

Wiring and Connections: Inspect wiring harnesses and connectors for damage, corrosion, or loose connections, especially in the engine compartment and around the battery and starter. The original poster found a corroded positive battery clamp.
Ignition Switch: A faulty ignition switch might not properly send power to the starter circuit.
Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM): Chrysler vehicles, including the 200, are known to sometimes have issues with the TIPM (fuse box/relay center). Internal TIPM failures can cause a variety of electrical problems, including no-start conditions. While not explicitly mentioned in the original post, TIPM issues are a known concern for Chrysler vehicles and relevant to no-start problems.

6. Intermittent Issues and Resetting Electronics

Intermittent problems are notoriously difficult to diagnose. The original poster mentioned an intermittent no-start and attempted an “electronics reset” by connecting the battery cables together (off the battery).

Electronics Reset (Caution): Disconnecting the battery for a period (15-30 minutes) can sometimes reset the car’s computer systems and resolve temporary glitches. However, this should be done cautiously and may not fix underlying mechanical or electrical faults. The effectiveness is debatable, and it’s not a guaranteed solution. The original poster tried this method.
Look for Patterns: Try to identify any patterns or conditions under which the no-start occurs. Does it happen more often when the car is hot, cold, after sitting for a certain time, etc.? This can provide clues. In the original case, heat and sitting for a couple of hours seemed to be factors.

When to Seek Professional Help

Troubleshooting a no-start condition can become complex. If you’ve checked the basics (battery, terminals) and are still facing a no-start issue, especially if you suspect an OBD2 system problem or deeper electrical faults, it’s advisable to seek professional help from a qualified mechanic or diagnostic technician.

Why Professional Help is Recommended:

Advanced Diagnostic Tools: Technicians have access to advanced scan tools that can go beyond basic OBD2 code reading, allowing for deeper system diagnostics and communication testing.
Electrical System Expertise: Diagnosing complex electrical issues requires specialized knowledge and equipment (like oscilloscopes, advanced multimeters, and wiring diagrams).
Safety: Working with automotive electrical systems can be dangerous if not done correctly.
Efficient Problem Solving: Professionals can often diagnose and repair issues more quickly and accurately, saving you time and potential further frustration.

If you’re searching for “cardiagnosticnearme.com,” you’re already on the right track! Utilize online directories or trusted review sites to find reputable auto repair shops or diagnostic specialists in your area who can assist with your 2016 Chrysler 200 no-start and OBD2 concerns. Don’t hesitate to describe the troubleshooting steps you’ve already taken, as this can help the technician focus their diagnosis.

Conclusion

A no-start issue combined with concerns about “OBD2 not working” on your 2016 Chrysler 200 can be a challenging problem. By systematically checking the battery, starter system, and considering potential electrical and computer-related issues, you can narrow down the possible causes. Remember to prioritize safety and seek professional help when needed. Accurate diagnosis is key to getting your Chrysler 200 back on the road reliably.