The internet forums of Expedition Portal are a treasure trove of incredible overland stories, but one recently caught our eye for its sheer audacity. Amidst tales of rugged 4x4s tackling extreme terrains, one stood out: a BMW M Coupe venturing into the wilds. This isn’t your typical expedition vehicle, but this story proves that adventure knows no bounds, or vehicle stereotypes. Mark Cupido’s account details a journey that will challenge preconceptions and inspire even the most hardened off-road enthusiasts to consider, perhaps, the unexpected.
It all began about a year prior when Ryan, fueled by a shared love for epic road trips, proposed a daring idea: driving the Dempster Highway, a renowned route stretching from the Klondike Highway to Inuvik, Northwest Territories (NWT). This wasn’t a casual suggestion. Ryan had previously considered this trip with his father, ultimately opting for the more conventional Pacific Coast Highway drive to San Diego. The Dempster, however, with its reputation for stunning landscapes, remote wilderness, and notoriously unpaved conditions, held a different kind of allure. Its unique construction, featuring up to 8 feet of gravel to insulate against the permafrost and relentless freeze-thaw cycles, presented a formidable challenge, especially for the vehicle they had in mind. Thus, the planning for an unconventional adventure began.
For a journey like this, encompassing a grueling 1,500-kilometer round trip on rock, shale, and gravel roads – often in less than ideal conditions – plus over 5,000 kilometers of highway driving to and from the starting point, a sensible choice would be a spacious, comfortable, and reliable vehicle. Something akin to a Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, perhaps, like the author’s own recent purchase. However, fueled by the spirit of true “gearheads” (or perhaps, as they later admit, “idiots”), they made a different choice. They decided to embark on this Arctic expedition in Ryan’s 2001 BMW M-Coupe. Yes, you read that right. A two-door, two-seater hatchback, packing significantly more power than your average off-roader. And so, the mantra for this adventure was born: “Inuvik or Bust.”
Fast forward to just three weeks before departure. While most would be immersed in meticulous pre-trip preparations – vehicle inspections, essential maintenance, packing, and detailed planning – Ryan and Mark had a different agenda. Las Vegas beckoned. For six days (Ryan) and four (Mark), they indulged in the vibrant chaos of Sin City: drinks, gourmet meals, gambling, parties, and the company of good friends. They returned from this desert escapade with lighter wallets (roulette, you villain!) and a distinct lack of sleep on the eve of their departure. In a whirlwind three hours, they transformed the BMW M Coupe from a street machine to an unlikely adventure vehicle. Winter wheels and tires were swapped in, a roof rack was mounted, spare front and rear wheels and tires were secured, along with three 20-liter jerry cans, a robust 5-ton jack, a roadside emergency kit, and, of course, a cooler for essential beverages. Mission (im)possible was rapidly approaching reality. As anticipation mounted, the morning arrived swiftly, and they engaged in a final game of Tetris, strategically packing the remaining gear into the surprisingly accommodating hatch of the compact BMW. Fueled by coffee and energy drinks, they were finally ready to roll. The sight of the loaded-up BMW M Coupe was, in their own words, “ridiculous.”
BMW M coupe loaded with gear for the Dempster Highway
BMW M coupe rear view with roof rack and spare tires
Day 1: The Long Haul to Fort Nelson
The first leg of their journey was, by their own admission, a “grueling, boring, drab, flat, and ironically the only real snow-filled part” of the entire trip. A solid 1,000-kilometer push from their starting point to Fort Nelson, British Columbia (BC). This stretch was so visually uninspiring that it failed to warrant a single photo from cameras, cell phones, or GoPros. After a brief stop in Dawson Creek for a beer and a bite, and a symbolic passing of the 0.0-mile marker of the Alaska Highway, they continued through the vast expanse of oil country, eventually reaching Fort Nelson around 9 p.m. A near mishap occurred as they rolled into a Petro Canada gas station with the BMW M Coupe practically running on fumes. The three jerry cans strapped to the roof rack were still empty, leading to a moment of shared laughter and realization of their near predicament. Stranded on the side of the road, with empty fuel containers, in the middle of British Columbia – the irony was not lost on them. Fuel management became a priority from that point forward. They checked into the first hotel they found, dropped off their gear, and celebrated the successful first day with beers at the local Boston Pizza. Day 1: mission accomplished.
BMW M coupe on a scenic highway
Day 2: Mountain Majesty and a Mountain Goat Mishap
Day two began with an early start and a renewed commitment to fuel preparedness – they filled a jerry can, a testament to their day one lesson. Their destination was the stunning terrain that lay ahead, a 950-kilometer stretch of breathtaking scenery. However, the immediate priority was a stop at the nearest Tim Horton’s for coffee and breakfast. As they progressed, the sweeping highways winding through the mountains provided countless opportunities to stop, admire the vistas, and capture photos. They acknowledged that even the best photos could hardly do justice to the grandeur of this region, urging readers to experience the drive firsthand. After about 250 kilometers of navigating corners, dips, climbs, valleys, and cliffs, they reached Muncho Lake and Strawberry Flats, a location recommended by the author’s aunt. The lake was remarkably calm and crystal clear, prompting repeated exclamations of “Wow.” This leg of the journey was proving to be visually spectacular. At this point, the author took over driving duties, a decision he would soon regret.
Just 20 kilometers further down the road, an unexpected encounter occurred. Rounding a crest, Ryan pointed out three mountain goats grazing in a roadside ditch. A quick brake application startled the goats, causing them to bolt diagonally across the highway, directly into the path of the BMW M Coupe. Despite evasive maneuvers, there was no avoiding a collision. In a dramatic leap, the largest goat collided with the BMW’s roof rack. The impact, combined with their off-road positioning, caused the M Coupe to veer off the gravel and come to a halt on the shoulder. A flurry of expletives followed as they assessed the damage. The goat’s head had struck the roof rack and then the roof, its chest obliterated the driver’s side mirror, and its lifeless body ricocheted off the rear quarter panel into the ditch. While some might feel sympathy for the goat, their immediate concern was for the BMW. Surprisingly, considering the impact, the damage was relatively contained. The car, though now sporting battle scars, remained drivable. They continued on, leaving the unfortunate goat behind.
After navigating past herds of bison grazing alongside the highway, they arrived in Whitehorse at 7:30 p.m., eagerly anticipating a home-cooked meal at the author’s aunt and uncle’s house. A phenomenal moose stew dinner, accompanied by wine and engaging conversation, was followed by a relaxing evening catching up and sharing stories. They concluded the day with a few pints at the Sternwheeler Saloon, the hotel bar. Grateful for the hospitality, they thanked their aunt and uncle for the warm welcome and comfortable overnight stay.
BMW M coupe parked with scenic mountain backdrop
Day 3: Cinnamon Buns and Dawson City’s Gold Rush Charm
Day three marked a shorter driving day, covering 550 kilometers. However, the increasing beauty of the Yukon landscape made the drive a pleasure, punctuated by frequent stops at scenic lookouts and a crucial detour for cinnamon buns. For anyone venturing into the Yukon, a mandatory stop is Braeburn Lodge, home of the legendary “big buns.” The cinnamon bun they encountered was, quite literally, as large as the author’s head. Approaching Dawson City, they paused at the start of the infamous Dempster Highway for a quick photo opportunity and a brief 25-minute foray onto the Dempster to assess road conditions. Everything appeared favorable. With the driving for the day largely complete, thoughts turned to “beer-o’clock,” and the historic allure of Dawson City beckoned.
BMW M coupe on the Dempster Highway gravel road
BMW M coupe parked at a scenic lookout
Day 3 (Continued): Dawson City Immersion
Dawson City, Yukon, exceeded all expectations. The author confessed to understanding the city’s magnetic pull, a place where visitors often find themselves reluctant to leave. The streets, composed of mud and dirt, the wooden sidewalks, and the buildings preserved from the gold rush era, created a unique and captivating atmosphere. After securing accommodations, they headed to the hotel patio bar for a well-deserved lunch and beers. Their bartender/server provided insider tips on local attractions, pointing them towards panoramic lookouts and Diamond Tooth Gerties, Dawson’s renowned gambling hall, effectively outlining their evening’s itinerary.
Back in the BMW M Coupe, they drove down the main street and onto a ferry to reach the first lookout point overlooking Dawson City. The views were, as the photos suggest, spectacular. While soaking in the scenery and lamenting the absence of cold drinks in their cooler, an American couple joined them. They noticed the makeshift “Band-aid” – a humorous attempt to cover the damage from the mountain goat incident – on the BMW’s rear quarter panel, sparking a conversation. It turned out the American couple also planned to dine at the Drunken Goat Taverna that evening. They exchanged pleasantries and parted ways, heading back to the ferry. A quick drive through town led them up the winding Dome Road to the second lookout point, “the Dome.” Again, the views were breathtaking – a 360-degree panorama encompassing Dawson City, the Alaskan hills, the Yukon River, and the mountains they would traverse the following day, even a paraglider launch point. After watching a paraglider take flight and indulging in an overpriced beer, they returned to the hotel, parked the BMW for the night, and prepared to explore Dawson City on foot, ready to embrace the local nightlife and Yukon Brewing Company’s offerings. While walking through town, they spotted a weathered Subaru WRX with Ontario license plates parked roadside. Chuckling at the sight, they were overheard by the owner, who happened to be nearby. A brief conversation led to introductions and shared travel stories, culminating in an impromptu plan to meet up later at Gerties for the midnight burlesque show.
The Drunken Goat Taverna lived up to its reputation. Pitchers of beer flowed freely. Toasts were raised to the unfortunate mountain goat. The American couple from the lookout arrived, and the evening’s momentum escalated. The wife seemed less than thrilled as her husband rapidly matched the pace of beer consumption set by the adventurous duo. Food orders were somewhat neglected in favor of drinks, with only calamari and pita bread making it to the table. Around 11:30 p.m., the American couple, with the slightly unsteady husband in tow, departed. The group then moved on to Gerties. More beers ensued. The burlesque show was a highlight, reminiscent of classic cabaret performances and highly entertaining. Miss Ontario and her parents joined them as planned. The night continued with more drinks, lively (and increasingly intoxicated) discussions, and gambling. The author confessed to generously donating to the roulette and blackjack tables, and even losing at poker. Undeterred by empty wallets, they continued enjoying the cabaret and more beers until closing time. But the night was far from over. At 2:30 a.m., still energized, they invited their new friends back to the hotel to finish off the remaining beers. The evening transformed into a memorable gathering with great company, stories, and laughter. By 5:00 a.m., exhaustion finally set in, and it was time for a few hours of sleep. Contact information was exchanged, and they bid farewell to their new acquaintances.
Dawson City lookout view with BMW M coupe
Dawson City street scene with BMW M coupe
Diamond Tooth Gerties Gambling Hall in Dawson City
BMW M coupe at Dawson City ferry landing
Dawson City Dome lookout panoramic view
Dawson City street with wooden sidewalks
Day 4: Dempster Highway and the Arctic Circle
Day four dawned with a heavy head and a 7:00 a.m. alarm. The previous night’s revelry was catching up. Adding to the morning haze, the camera was missing. A frantic search of the hotel room ensued. Recalling having the DSLR at the Drunken Goat and Gerties, but unsure of its current location, panic began to set in. A call to Gerties was futile, as they were closed. After quick showers to attempt some semblance of human form, they began packing the BMW for the journey to Inuvik. And there it was – the camera, sitting innocently on the cargo cover in the back of the BMW M Coupe. A collective “WTF?!” moment followed as they tried to piece together the logic behind placing it there. Hangover-induced memory lapses aside, they set off in silence, no radio, no conversation, just the shared discomfort of a gravel road and swerving to avoid potholes and rocks on minimal sleep. Seventy kilometers up the Dempster Highway, they reached the Tombstone Territorial Park Interpretive Center and desperately needed a break. The aroma of bacon, coffee, and French toast wafted from the center’s doors. Sheepishly, they approached the ranger station and offered $20 for a coffee. The rangers, kind and understanding, welcomed them into their break room and provided not just coffee, but also bacon and eggs. It was their last day of the season, and while incredibly friendly, their cheerful demeanor was a stark contrast to the duo’s current state. Refueled and slightly more human, they thanked the rangers and continued onward. Even if the entire Dempster Highway wasn’t on your itinerary, Tombstone Territorial Park is a must-see. While they had missed the peak fall colors by a week, the scenery remained breathtakingly beautiful.
Continuing along the Dempster, they reached Eagle Plains, the halfway point. Nourishment was essential. They entered the diner, hopeful for breakfast, only to be informed that breakfast service had ended. However, with some persuasion and a generous tip, they convinced the cook to prepare bacon and eggs, effectively curing their hangovers. Next up: the Arctic Circle, a significant milestone. Ryan believes his BMW M Coupe is the first to cross the Arctic Circle, and certainly the furthest north an M Coupe has ever ventured – a unique achievement. After obligatory tourist photos at the Arctic Circle sign, the next destination was Inuvik, Northwest Territories. Two ferry crossings later, they were on the final leg. Sooner than expected, they arrived in Inuvik. The Dempster Highway section of their adventure was a success. Ironically, the worst road conditions they encountered were the final 15 kilometers of PAVED road leading from the airport into Inuvik. Permafrost and frost heave had wreaked havoc on the asphalt, a testament to the challenges of civil engineering in such environments. “Beer-o’clock” was once again declared. After checking into the Nova Inn, they headed to Shivers, a local pub, for food and more Yukon Brewing Company beers.
Arctic Circle sign photo opportunity with BMW M coupe
BMW M coupe on Dempster Highway with fall colors
BMW M coupe on ferry crossing
Day 5: Tuktoyaktuk and a Frigid Dip
Day five’s plan: Tuktoyaktuk (Tuk). Their pre-arranged Mackenzie Delta Tour to Tuktoyaktuk was delayed due to weather. After an early 6:15 a.m. wake-up and an hour of waiting in the hotel lobby, they returned to their room for more sleep. Ryan embraced a mid-afternoon nap, while the author explored Inuvik online, searching for local attractions. Around 10:30 a.m., Ryan begrudgingly emerged, showered, and they ventured out to explore Inuvik on foot. Inuvik’s unique infrastructure, entirely built on permafrost, fascinated the author. Every building is elevated on piles to prevent melting the permafrost below. Even utilities are routed through insulated and elevated viaducts. The civil engineering marvel was impressive. By 3:00 p.m., they were transported to the airport – “chauffeured” in a bumpy 15-passenger van on Inuvik’s frost-heaved roads.
This marked the author’s first experience in a plane smaller than a Dash-8. The Cessna appeared outwardly acceptable, but closer inspection revealed a different story – doors that didn’t quite close, a sagging headliner, cracked interior plastics, and missing rivets. Ryan, a pilot himself, reassured him, but the author remained somewhat apprehensive. The 45-minute flight was smooth, offering views of pingos (ice-formed hills), and they landed safely in Tuktoyaktuk. If Inuvik felt remote, Tuktoyaktuk took desolation to another level. As Ryan aptly put it, “Tuktoyaktuk makes Inuvik look like Toronto.” The tour of Tuk was eye-opening. They visited the oldest building in Tuk, saw the boat used by early missionaries, explored a traditional igloo, and visited historical sites. Their guide also took them to the town’s ice cellar, descending 30 degrees down an unlit shaft into the permafrost to explore the maze of underground storage rooms, historically used for preserving caribou and whale meat.
Emerging from the ice cellar, they reached the end of the Trans Canada Trail. Here, they considered their most audacious plan of the trip: a dip in the Arctic Ocean. Despite being prepared with swimwear and towels, the reality of the near-freezing temperatures and wind quickly set in. Submerging just a foot into the frigid water sent immediate chills. By the time the water reached thigh level, feeling in their feet was gone. The planned Arctic plunge was abandoned in favor of a hasty retreat to shore, towel drying, and layering up with warm clothes. The Arctic Ocean swim was a bust. “Beer-o’clock” called again, and the desire for warmth and comfort outweighed any further Arctic adventures. They returned to Inuvik and, predictably, ended up back at Shivers for more food and beers.
Tuktoyaktuk Arctic Ocean view
Tuktoyaktuk Pingo view
Tuktoyaktuk Ice Cellar entrance
Day 6: Backtracking to Dawson City
Day six marked the beginning of the return journey. As captivating as the Northwest Territories were, Dawson City was calling them back. They started the day with a beautiful sunrise and the familiar gravel roads of the Dempster Highway, heading south towards the Yukon. Ferries were boarded and disembarked, and then the skies opened up, unleashing rain. The BMW M Coupe was quickly coated in mud. Having already explored the lookouts and tourist stops on the way north, they maintained a steady pace, encountering no delays. Fueling up in Eagle Plains, both car and occupants, they began the final stretch to Dawson City. Surprisingly, the roads seemed smoother, possibly due to recent maintenance. They managed to maintain an average speed of 100 kph. They did pause for one last view of Tombstone Territorial Park, reaffirming its stunning beauty and a vow to return. Inevitably, it was “beer-o’clock” again. They parked the BMW M Coupe in front of the Aurora Inn and set out to explore Dawson City’s pubs.
Following another recommendation from the author’s uncle, they visited Bombay Peggy’s Pub. After a few pints, hunger set in, but they discovered Bombay Peggy’s only served appetizers. So, they returned to a familiar haunt: the Drunken Goat. “Toast to the goat!” Beers and dinner were consumed, followed by a return visit to Gerties to attempt to recoup gambling losses from night three. Another donation to the roulette table, blackjack table, and poker table ensued. Empty wallets and a few more beers later, they enjoyed the cabaret show and called it a night, gambling losses unrecovered.
Day 7: Flat Tire Fiasco and Whitehorse Reunion
Day seven felt increasingly long. Being 6’7” and confined in the BMW M Coupe was taking its toll. Thankfully, it was another relatively short driving day. However, no road trip is complete without a flat tire, or so it seems. They were prepared for one and, in a way, their wish was granted. Limping the BMW to the nearest gas station, they inflated the right rear tire enough to reach a local tire shop. The tire shop’s schedule didn’t align with theirs, so they decided to tackle the repair themselves. Neither had ever plugged a tire before, relying on professional services in the past. It was a learning experience. Ryan’s initial hesitation to enlarge the puncture in a $450 tire led to a comical attempt to force a plug into the small hole using the plug tool and a piece of lumber. A local observed their struggles and offered helpful tips and tricks. Within 20 minutes, the tire was plugged, inflated, and remounted. The flat tire detour cost them about two hours, derailing plans to reach Skagway for a beer that afternoon. Once back on the road, they retraced their route towards Whitehorse, planning to meet up with Bailey (Miss Ontario) again. Despite the questionable decision-making of hanging out with them again, Bailey agreed to a reunion, a welcome familiar face (besides Ryan’s) on the journey. They settled into the Ramada hotel. Ryan checked Fountain Tire for all-season replacements for their worn winter tires, but low-profile tires were unsurprisingly scarce in a pickup truck-centric city. The winter tires would have to suffice for the remaining journey home.
Beers, beers, and more beers were in order. Back at the Sternwheeler Saloon, Bailey joined them for pints before heading to Earl’s for dinner. In a more sober state, they learned that Bailey was an even more seasoned road tripper, with countless miles and states under her belt, and a shared appreciation for Top Gear (the original UK version). With an interview the next day, Bailey couldn’t stay out late. After she departed, they finished a few more beers, knowing a 1000-kilometer drive awaited them the next day.
Day 8: Stewart, BC and Rainforest Roads
Day eight began at 7:00 a.m., back on the road. The initial 400 kilometers were backtracking, followed by 600 kilometers of new territory down the Stewart-Cassiar Highway. Stewart, BC, was their target, envisioned as another charming gold rush town based on Ryan’s research. They drove south, but missed the turn-off for the abandoned asbestos mining town of Cassiar. The author expressed disappointment at missing the opportunity to explore an abandoned town, but time constraints prevented backtracking. A quick stop in Jade City for a bite, and they continued on. Fortuitously, the AMA maps Ryan consulted proved inaccurate, and they avoided the anticipated 275 kilometers of gravel road. The winter tires were spared further wear.
The Stewart-Cassiar Highway and its surrounding scenery were beautiful, but unlike the Dempster, Alaska, and Klondike highways, lookouts were scarce and poorly marked, limiting photo opportunities. The final 60 kilometers into Stewart on the Glacier Highway were spectacular. The landscape transformed from autumnal trees into a rainforest-like valley. Waterfalls cascaded down mountainsides, and trees encroached on the road. The drive to Stewart was undeniably scenic. They managed a brief stop at Bear Glacier for photos before descending into Stewart. Stewart, BC, however, was a letdown. Lacking cell service and quaint pubs, it offered only subpar restaurants and rundown accommodations. Disappointed, they checked into the King Edward Hotel, whose rooms and décor seemed to predate them both, and visited the attached bar for a quick meal and beers. Deciding not to linger, they retired early for a fresh start the next day, eager to leave Stewart behind.
Bear Glacier scenic view from the road
Day 9: Hyder, Alaska and a Family Feast
Day nine marked the home stretch. Having covered 5,700 kilometers, driving fatigue was setting in. They made a quick detour into Hyder, Alaska, simply to say they had been there. Their time spent in Alaska was shorter than the time spent explaining their brief Alaskan foray to Canadian Border Patrol upon re-entry. Fortunately, it was another short driving day, just 400 kilometers from Stewart, BC, to Houston, BC, home to the author’s sister’s family. A brief stop in Smithers, BC, for gas and food led them to the Alpenhorn Pub and Bistro, where they indulged in the recommended three-cheese nachos with pulled pork. Back in the BMW M Coupe, they continued to Houston. It had been over four years since his last visit. Catching up with family, playing Legos with his nephews, and meeting his niece was a welcome change. The kids proudly showed off six newborn golden retriever puppies.
Dinner was a feast: steak, crab legs, twice-baked potatoes, and cauliflower salad – a welcome respite from pub food. After Lego building and bedtime for the kids, they enjoyed drinks and stories around the kitchen table. The visit was a reminder of the importance of family connections.
Day 10: Revelstoke Detour and Mountain Biking
Day ten began with an unwelcome 6:45 a.m. wake-up call and a work conference call. Vacation interruptions aside, he joined his nephews for breakfast before they headed to school. After goodbyes, they departed, opting for a 700-kilometer detour south instead of heading directly home. Down the Cariboo Highway, through Kamloops, and skirting the Shuswap region, they headed towards Revelstoke. Ryan’s brother lived in Revelstoke. Arriving just after 7 p.m., “beer-o’clock” was once again timely. They borrowed bikes and cycled to the Big Eddy Pub for burgers, fries, and cold beers. After a wobbly bike ride back, they enjoyed a few more drinks before calling it a night.
Day 11: Homeward Bound
Day eleven: home day, finally. Another 300 kilometers through mountains, followed by 400 kilometers of less inspiring scenery before reaching Edmonton. They met Ryan’s parents and sister-in-law in Lake Louise for lunch, recounting their adventure to date. Despite knowing Ryan for years, the author had never met his parents. After lunch and well-wishes, they continued homeward. Arriving in Edmonton around 6 p.m., they celebrated their successful BMW M Coupe Arctic adventure at their local pub, Joeys Mayfield, with victory beers. The rally-ready BMW M Coupe parked outside, they reflected on their journey: Great success, many good times, and lasting memories. Inuvik or Bust, mission accomplished.
7,755 kilometers, 2 Provinces, 2 Territories, 1 US State… because road trips.
Map of the BMW M coupe Arctic road trip route
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